On Pouring a Good Stout
Time is the main ingredient. A thirst cannot truly be quenched without it. For stout, the measure is in the pour. There's no rush, but slowness is by and large misunderstood, and so rushing remains the norm. For instance, right now I'm at one of those blood drives which constitute the extent of my service impulse these days. I am watching my blood seep into a sterilized plastic bag while my daughter—our daughter—reads King of the Wind by Marguerite Henry (illustrated by Wesley Dennis, Rand McNally & Co., Chicago, ©1948) with such intensity she can't hear me call out to her to stop twirling her hair. Your own blood in quantity is darker than you think it should be, and the color and stealth with which it accumulates remind me of pouring a stout, which ends up dark, but which foams from the tap into the glass a rich, wild tan, like "a clear bay—whose coat is touched with gold. When he flees under the sun he is the wind" (p. 53). That's the first color: steed-tan. And active, with tiny bubbles parading up and down in columns, particles swirling and tossing their manes, hooves tearing at silky hide. I fill the pint glass a third of the way and let it sit for a good five minutes, until all the animals have settled down, the bay has floated to the top and thickened, leaving the blood brooding below. And I pour another third, and the horses start and whinny. And I wait, patient, wise, silent, wiry, like my brewmaster love ("The only 'uman bein' what can 'andle 'im is a spindlin' boy," p. 107) until all is calm again. And I pour the last third, and the thick head rises up, up past the rim of the pint, but it doesn't spill because I have been patient and slow and wise. It stays put, my prayer, my possession, not quite broken, reading in her chair.